When he was living in Palazzo Mocenigo, Lord Byron used to swim across the Grand Canal. Mark Twain described its appearance in moonlight as magical; Goethe felt himself to be "Lord of the Adriatic" here; and Dickens, convinced the ghost of Shylock roamed the bridges of the city, felt the spirit of Shakespeare strongly in Venice. To best experience the Grand Canal, take a vaporetto from the railway station, described by Gustav von Aschenbach, the main character in Death in Venice, as the "tradesmen's entrance to the city, and follow it round to Piazza San Marco, the heart of the city. This short journey will undoubtedly leave as magical an impression on modern day travellers as it once did on its illustrious visitors of the past.Given the nature and origins of Venice as it seemingly rises up out of the water, the Grand Canal is, in every respect, the city's high street. The Grand Canal (3km/2mi long, between 30m/98ft and 70m/229ft wide and, on average, 5.5m/ I 8ft deep) takes the form of an inverted S, with the bend marked by the Ca' Foscari. It is not the only way through the city and it is often quicker to go on foot but, with the best views of the palazzi and churches that overlook the canal, it is an experience not to be missed.
From river to Canal
The origins of the Grand Canal, which may once have been a branch of the River Medoacus are lost in the mists of time. The traghetti (gondolas which cross the river) have, however, provided a ferry servite between the banks of the Canal since the year 1000: some of the existing landing stages have been in side since the 13C, many either serving mills that were operated by the tides or squeri where the gondolas were built; then there were the workshops for the Guild of Wool Weavers and Clothmakers. The finest walk takes one along the Canal where the beauty of the city unfolds: fa4ades of vibrant colours, resplendent with gilding, exude the festive spirit and optimism of the Venetians, who have never known the threat of oppression, not even in the Middie Ages, when the rest of the world had to build fortresses and sombre palaces to defend themselves. The palazzi that flank the Grand Canal are the Venetian nobility's expression of pride and self-satisfaction: they were the only people who could vouchsafe a piece of this water garden.
Although commercial, banking and state enterprises have been in operation along the canal since the Renaissance, churches and fine palazzi were being erected right up until the Republic breathed its last.