Castello District
Dalmatian School (Scuola Dalmata di San Giorgio)-This "school," a fraternal organization, is a reminder that Venice was Europe's most cosmopolitan place in its heyday. It was here that the Dalmatians (from the present-dav region of Croatia) worshiped in their own way, held neighborhood meetings, and worked to preserve their culture. The chapel ori the ground floor happens to have the most exquisite Renaissance interior in Venice, with a cycle painted by Carpaccio ringing the room (�3, Tue-Sat 9:30-12:30 & 15:30-18:30, Sun 9:30-12:30, closed Mori, between St. Mark's Square and Arsenale, ori Calle dei Furlani, 3 blocks southeast of Campo San Lorenzo, tel. 041-522-8828). Santa Elena-For a pleasant peek into a completely non-touristy, residential side of Venice, walk or catch vaporetto #1 or #82 from St. Mark's Square to the neighborhood of Santa Elena (at the fish's tail). This 100-year-old suburb lives as if there were no tourism. You'll find a kid-friendly park, a few lazy restaurants, and beautiful sunsets over San Marco.
The Biennale-Every odd year, including 2005, Venice hosts an exciting world's fair of modern art in the Giardini park and Arsenale (May-Nov, take vaporetto #1 or #82 to (Giardini/Biennale," www .labiennale.org).