Frari Church (Chiesa dei Frari)-My favorite art experience in Venice is seeing art in situ-the setting for which it was designed and my favorite example is the Chiesa dei Frari. The Franciscan "church of the friars" and the art that decorates it are warmed by the spirit of St. Francis. It features the work of three great Renaissance masters: Donatello, Bellini, and Titian, each showing worshipers the glory of God in human terms.
In Donatello's wood carving of St. John the Baptist (just to the right of the high altar), the prophet of the desert-dressed in animal skins and nearly starving from his diet of bugs and honey-announces the coming of the Messiah. Donatello was a Florentine working at the dawn of the Renaissance.
Bellini's Madonna and Child with Saints and Angels painting (in the chapel farther to the right) came later, done by a Venetian in a more Venetian style-soft focus without Donatello's harsh realism. While Renaissance humanism demanded Madonnas and saints that were accessible and human, Bellini places them in a physical setting so beautiful it creates its own mood of serene holy-ales. The genius of Bellini, perhaps the greatest Venetian painter, is obvious in the pristine clariry, rich colors (notice Mary's clothing), believable depth, and reassuring calm of this three-paneled altarpiece. It's so good to see a painting in its natural setting.
Finally, glowing red and gold like a stained-glass window over the high altar, Titian's The assumption of Mary sets the tone of exuberant beautv found in the otherwise sparse church. Titian the Venetian-a student of Bellini-painted steadily for 60 years...you'll see a lot of his art. As stunned apostles look up past the swirl of arms and legs, the complex composition of this painting draws you right to the radiant face of the once dying, now triumphant Mary as she joins God in heaven.
Be comfortable discreetly freeloading off passing tours. For many, these three pieces of art make a visit to the Accademia Gallery unnecessary (or they may whet your appetite for more). Before leaving, check out the neoclassical, pyramid-shaped tomb of Canova and (opposite that) the grandiose tomb of Titian. Compare the carved marble Assumption behind Titian's tombstone portrait with the painted original above the high altar.
Cost and Hours: �2.50, covered by Chorus Pass, Mon-Sat 9:00-18:00, Sun 13:00-18:00 but closed Sun in Aug (last entry 15 min before closing, no visits during services, audioguides�1.60/person or �2.60/double set). Modest dress is recommended.
The church often hosts evening concerts; for details, check for fliers, call 041-272-8611, or visit www.basilicadeifrari.it (Church info tel. 041-2728-6118.)
Scuola Grande di San Rocco-Sometimes called "Tintoretto's Sistine Chapel," this lavish meeting hall (next to the Frari Church) has some 501arge, colorful Tintoretto paintings plastered to the walls and ceilings. The best paintings are upstairs, especiallY the Crucifixion in the smaller room. View the neck-breaking splendor with one of the mirrors (specchio) available at the entrance (�5.50, includes free and informative audioguide, daily� April-Oct 9:00-17:30, Nov-March 10:00-16:00, last entrv 30 min before closing, or see a concert here and enjoy the art as an evening bonus, www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it).